Honoli'i is a Hilo surf spot. It's one of my favorite places on the Big Island. I have lots of good memories of hanging out there with friends and family: Sister, Mom, Dad, Grandpa Duane, Jill, and Lottie.
I love watching surfers. They're amazing. I enjoy watching people "paddle out" just as much as watching someone catch a wave. Today there were some really strong paddlers. It's like they're effortlessly gliding out to the break.
Over the years, I've learned some things to watch for: the size of boards, where the current goes out, and surfers without leashes. Surfing has its own culture. It has its own lingo, rules, and etiquette.
I don't surf. I probably won't ever. My right ankle is too weak, I have bad balance, and I'm not a strong enough swimmer. There are sharp lava rocks and sticks everywhere both on the beach and lurking under the water. Yesterday I almost broke my neck walking down into the kid's beach. Yes, the kid's beach. It's literally the easiest place to get into the ocean on Hilo's side of the island. My sister had to offer me her hand, and she was holding the baby.
The first time I watched my sister surf, all the locals were confused. "You no surfing?" they asked.
"No, no," I replied, "I don't know how."
"Boogie board," they said, smiling huge. "Boogie board!"
Today there were tons of kids boogie boarding and surfing. They were incredible. I could not have boogie boarded in that water. I would have drank a gallon of salt water, and the ocean would have worked me over. There's a timing to catching waves, and I don't have it.
Instead, I hold down my spot on the beach, visit with the locals, and breathe with the tide. In... two three. Out... two three.
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